NSLU2-Linux
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  1. There are no screws - the case is held together by 6 small tabs along the vertical junction between the light grey and dark grey parts of the case, and one at the bottom (covered by sticker)
  2. Hold the NSLU2 upright in front of you, with the vertical side of the case with the rubber feet facing you, and with the rear connectors on your left, and the front LEDs and power switch on your right.
  3. Gently squeeze the dark grey sides of the unit with your left hand thumb and forefinger just about where the uppermost rubber foot is on the left hand (or rear) part of the case, and with your right thumb and forefinger gently (seriously) pull the top of the light grey part of the case away from the dark grey part of the case, wiggling the light grey part as you pull it. It should start to separate at the top of the unit at the boundary of the dark grey and light grey parts of the case (about a millimeter separation is all you are looking for at this stage - don't try and separate it more than a millimeter or you will break the tabs). You might even hear a soft "click" as the tabs near the topmost side rubber foot are dislodged, but don't be concerned if you don't hear the click in this step - you will definitely hear it in the next step.
  4. While continuing to apply gentle pressure on the case so that the slight 1mm separation remains at the top, move your left hand thumb and forefinger down to the middle of the case to the top of the area with holes in it (just under the "Linksys Network Storage Link" text on the sides of the unit) and continue gently squeezing the dark grey part of the case whilst gently pulling and wiggling the light grey part of the case.
  5. At this point, the top-most tabs will definitely be dislodged, and the middle tabs may also come apart. The separation at the top of the unit at the boundary of the dark grey and light grey parts of the case will now be about 3 or 4 millimetres - again don't try and separate the case at this point or you will break something. You will now be able to clearly see the tab near the top-most rubber feet. There is one set of tabs at the top near the rubber feet, one set in the middle just below the top of the holed area, and a third set of tabs at the bottom of the case (just above the bottom set of rubber feet).
  6. Again, move your left hand thumb and forefinger down to the bottom of the left hand (or rear) part of the case, just on the bottom set of rubber feet near the boundary of the dark grey and light grey parts of the case, and move your right hand thumb and forefinger down to the bottom of the right hand (or front) part of the case, this time grabbing the bottom front dark grey curved section (on the sides of where the power switch is).
  7. This time you should squeeze (with the left hand) quite a bit harder than you needed to for the other two sets of tabs, and instead of trying to angle the top of the light grey part of the case away from the top of the dark grey area of the case, you are now trying to pull the bottom of the right hand (or front) part of the case away from the left hand (or rear) part of the case so that the two parts of the case are separated by a vertical gap of about 3 to 4 millimetres equally from the top to the bottom.
  8. All three sets of tabs should now be dislodged, and you should be able to slide the two parts of the case apart. On the bottom of right hand part there is an additional tab which you can (see note 2 below) loosen with a little pressure of a knife from the bottom in upright direction. The right hand (or front) part of the case slides away freely, with the PCB remaining in the left hand (or rear) part of the case.
  9. You can now just slide the PCB out of the left hand (or rear) part of the case, and you are done.
Note:
If you decide to put the unit back together again, make sure that the clear plastic power button is aligned with the hole in the front cover before you attempt to snap the case front to the case back. If the button is not lined up, it will place too much pressure on the power switch. From experience, the force of snapping the two halves of the case together will be sufficient to break the power switch (by snapping the black plastic out of the switch frame).

There are PCB guides in both halves of the case. In order to get everything aligned properly it might be easier to seat the PCB in the front part of the case first, since it will be fairly obvious if the connectors on the back panel aren't lining up properly as the case is assembled.

Note:
The additional tab referred to in step eight (8) is 12 mm in from the very front of the right hand section, that with the power button. It is found on the bottom of the unit and may be covered with the label so not seen. You can push the knife through the label. The label covers a 5 mm slit in the base that acts as the catch for the bottom-front tab. If you keep the the light grey part slightly tilted while sliding it off (as it was because you started with the top tabs), you don't need to help the bottom tab, so you can keep the label intact.

[http://www.rwhitby.net/nslu2/serial.html] []

Note:
Remember to ground yourself before touching the insides of the nslu2.
view · edit · print · history · Last edited by rednuht.
Based on work by MarkMLl, Bas Wijnen, case, cbase, adflyer, dmbaker, Zak, MJFox, huou, lp71, tman, ByronT, crh, rwhitby, and ka6sox.
Originally by rwhitby.
Page last modified on May 06, 2009, at 09:04 PM